Compared to other methods of finishing metal parts – anodizing or plating, for instance, powder coating is remarkably easy and something anyone can do in a garage. In the video below, you can see sandblasting, powdering, and baking a set of aluminum skateboard trucks using his method. After that, it’s just filling the gun with powder, putting it in the oven set at 450☏, and letting the powder liquefy. The part is coated with powder via an electrostatic charge, and this means attaching a ground lead from the gun to the part. Any tape that’s capable of withstanding high temperatures will do, and most of us have a roll of Kapton sitting next to a 3D printer, anyway. If you want to coat big parts, there are DIY oven options for that.Īfter the part was sandblasted down to bare metal, masked off all the holes and threads of the part with polyimide tape. The only other tools needed were an N95 or better respirator, some high temperature tape for masking off the part and a toaster oven. Powders are plentiful and cheap in small quantities. A few years ago, Craftsman produced a powder coat gun that’s still available on Amazon and eBay for about $50. only needed a few things to powder coat his parts, the first and most important being a powder coat gun. had a go at powder coating some skateboard trucks, and with the right tools, found the process downright easy. Powder coating is much harder and more durable than paint – a property imbued to it by the fact that it’s baked on to a part. Easy and works well.If you don’t yet have a toaster oven you can’t use with food, here’s yet another reason: DIY powder coating. Under it is a trap door that you just toss the trash can under and dump the sediment into the trash. It has a spring loaded tamping rod that sticks outside the casing of the filter so every time I use it I give it a few smacks and it hits the filter and loose dust falls out. On the other hand my Bad Boy sandblaster has a cheap way to go about unclogging the dust collection filter on it. The filter bag went from clogging in short order to lasting multiple days and we were grooving a 3/8" wide grove, 3/16" deep for 120' each day. It trapped probably 70% or more of the dust before it even got to the shop vac filter bags. Didn't have the budget for the expensive vac, but what we ended up doing that worked rather well was a typical shop vac with a cyclone lid on a 5 gallon bucket before the vac filter. A few months ago I built a saw track setup for grooving prestress concrete items in a plant and needed dust collection on the saw. The self cleaning vacuums for concrete dust from Hilti and Metabo shake the filter ever 30? seconds or so and cost ~1,200$ for the vac. I'd appreciate any thoughts people have on ways to do this simply or, if anyone's aware of places that sell such filter modules without all the housings and so forth. We'd also probably want a smaller filter than most production systems, something like our sandblaster, which uses a truck air filter of some sort. We have a good gun but it's a prototype shop so we don't do much powder coating at any one time. There seem to be some different systems for doing this evenly, such as having a rotating pipe inside the filter but I could see going doing a long development road here and doing a lot of wheel reinventing. Imagine taking your sandblaster filter outside and blowing it out with an air gun from the inside. The main feature that pro-grade booths have is self cleaning filters where they periodically blast some air back through a cylindrical filter to blow the bulk of the powder off, where it falls down into a collection chamber. Our current approach is to suck on the booth with our Plymovent through a pre-filter, but that doesn't do much for the life of the Plymo's filter. I'd like to have something like the Nordson Econo-Coat 1001: but even more compact. We have about 41"x42"x48" WxDxH to work with, and that's up on a table which has a Tig Welder and Spot Welder underneath. We need to make a better powder coat booth in our extremely densely packed shop.
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